![]() Only Unicomp makes them, and they use a buckling spring design. The loudest, supposedly best keyboards are based on the model M keyboard and use buckling springs. They aren't also mushy, which to me, even the best laptop and membrane keyboards are in comparison. My experience with Cherry blues is, as with any mechanical keyboard, you need to unlearn some membrane keyboard bad habits, such as bottoming out keys, but once you do, it's fast. In addition to OCN, I've found geekhack has a really good guide to mechanical keyboards. That said, I use a BlackWidow Ultimate, and the major issue I have with it is it makes every other keyboard I have feel crappy - mechanical keyboards are AWESOME in my opinion. I do think mechanical keyboards are the bees knees (and often quite well made to boot), so, as long as you do your homework, you probably will find the right keyboard. The one I have bought had a window to press the arrow keys and felt good. Unfortunately, the best way to test a keyboard really, is to find someone with one, or hope for a demo model. I'd REALLY suggest trying the keyboard before buying it if you can, since there's a lot of variation. Quite a few enthusiast sites sell key testers, or assorted sets of switches if you want to test it. I've been trialing one with a brand of switch I have never heard of and it has a few keys that misbehave There's also low end keyboards with 'off brand' mechanical switches at around the price range of a decent membrane, though your mileage may vary. There's a non exhaustive list of switches and their characteristics on wikipedia You can also get keyboards with hot-swap sockets and build keyboards with the switches of your choice, or even mix switch types.Ī good many 'mainstream' keyboards may contain switches made by Kalih, Omeron or Geetech, that may be either badge engineered, or made to fit the manufacture's specifications. Most 'socketed'/solderable switches tend to be broadly compatible with cherry switches, but if you're planning on customising a keyboard, its worth doing your homework first. There's even a manufacturer who builds new build Model F keyboards, that use an older design of buckling springs than the classic model F Since Jeff's answer, there's multiple new versions of Cherry Switches - Which kinda tend to be either heavier (the Cherry Green and White variants), as well as multiple boutique, top tier and mid tier manufactures. Since the original answers were posted, there's been significant changes in the mechanical keyboard market, partially because the patents on the cherry switches have run out. I now own one of these keyboard switch testers: Available on the Corsair Vengeance K60 and K90, though. Rare variant of Cherry Black, also no tactile bump but with different parameters. It is not a huge difference but I prefer it over the brown and it is much closer in feel to a quiet blue in practice. Considered a "stiffer, slightly more tactile brown". This one, for what it's worth, is my personal favorite. For example the Das Keyboard S (silent) uses this switch. I've tried this switch and IMO it is basically a Blue without the extra noise. It's a fine switch but quite loud in my opinion, so be careful! My wife complained when I had keyboards using this switch in the house. For example the Das Keyboard and Razer BlackWidow use this switch. Very commonly used on "clicky" mechanical keyboards. Considered by some to be better for "gaming" than typing for that reason, but I think it's personal preference. ![]() That thread has a lot more detailed information about each switch, so definitely click through to learn more. I've attempted to summarize the most common Cherry switch information in the below diagrams derived from the original thread. ![]() However there are "quieter" mechanical switches. First, be warned: all mechanical keyboards are going to be substantially louder than typical rubber dome keyboards you may be familiar with.
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